It's the country's 'coffee capital'.

Trysts in Trieste are beguiling at any time of year, but the advent of winter enhances the heroic melancholy of a city whose heyday is long past. Soon the vast Piazza dell'Unita (1) will be adorned ...

For me, the north-eastern Italian port of Trieste is inextricably linked to James Joyce. I first visited the city while I was making a documentary about his great novel Ulysses in 2004. Earlier this ...